Did someone say 'beer'?
(Writer's note: This is a review I'm running in the Sentinel newspaper and is based on a pre-opening test run of the kitchen and wait staff. Sometimes, life is good.)

Auburn has many excellent dining establishments and now there is one more to add to the list. Recently opened in the former spot of the Shanghai Restaurant and saloon, the Auburn Alehouse features Michael Kent Murphy architecture, world-class cuisine designed by Executive Chef Luis Gomez and suds brewed by longtime brewmaster, Brian Ford.
Old time fans of the Shanghai will recognize the exterior of the American Block Building and the interior brick walls, but that’s about it. The building was gutted, right down to the dirt under the floors. All those familiar old antiques hanging on the walls were auctioned off shortly after the restaurant and bar were shuttered. But, the real story is how the new interior shines. From the new floor and dining area to the bar that’s handcrafted much like the brew sitting behind its shining surface, this business venture represents a new vitality for Old Town Auburn.
But enough about the aesthetics of the place, let’s get down to the food and the service. Monique was our waitress and she was top-notch. Despite a packed house, she ably handled our orders and questions, keeping a smile on her face the entire time. A quick perusal of the menu revealed reasonable prices, which is not what I expected when I walked in. With entrees hovering around $12-$19, and custom brews at $3 per glass or $4 for a pint, I knew this was my kind of place.
We started off with a cheese loaf appetizer ($8.25) that was big enough to feed four. She brought out a round of baked sourdough bread, stuffed with garlic and cheese, sitting on a plate drizzled with balsamic vinegar. Rachel said simply, “This is good.” I couldn’t have said it better myself. Sandy Stoltz, one of the wait staff, refilled our water glasses and told us the cheese loaf appetizer was his favorite. Our first round of brew was a Shanghai Stout for myself and an Old Town Brown for the missus. As a Guinness drinker, I immediately drew comparisons. Guinness is thicker on the tongue and has more bite, but the Shanghai Stout was smoother and, frankly, better. The Shanghai was creamy with a nice head, dark in color (as it should be) with rich full flavor. Ah, perfection. Rachel, not a stout drinker, also enjoyed a sip. “I don’t like stout, usually, but that is nice.” In turn, I sampled her Old Town Brown, which had a pleasant mellow flavor.
Next, Monique brought our main courses. I couldn’t decide between the grilled swordfish with avocado salsa served over mashed potatoes and veggies ($18.95) or the grilled salmon served with orange and caper hollandaise over garlic mashed potatoes and seasonal veggies ($14.95). The salmon won out, finally, and I wasn’t disappointed. The salmon was cooked perfectly, the presentation was great, and the asparagus was cooked but still crisp -- excellent. Rachel had the chicken breast served over risotto with a vegetable. The breast was cooked skin on, which she loved. She gave her meal a thumbs up also, with her only complaint being the risotto was a touch too salty. I could say the same thing about portions of my salmon, but overall it was excellent and salt level is a matter of personal taste.
With main courses almost finished, Monique brought us our second round of brew. I ordered the Miner’s Wheat Ale while Rachel went with Fool’s Gold Ale. After tasting them both, I preferred the Fool’s Gold. Surprisingly full-bodied, Fool’s Gold was robust and almost sweet, but not quite. The Miner’s Wheat Ale was light and made a nice summer beverage, but isn’t something I would order in a brew house.
We finished off the evening with a key lime tart ($4.95) for dessert. The vanilla-cookie crusted concoction hit the spot on a warm summer evening. Featuring toasted coconut, whipped cream and a light lime custard served with mango coulis, the dish was the end to a perfect dining experience. In my book, the Auburn Alehouse perfectly complements the established restaurants in Old Town and hits a home run for beer lovers like myself. I highly recommend the food and the brew.